Tilicho Peak Expedition – 30 Days
A remote and seriously technical 7,134m peak above Tilicho Lake — a full high-altitude expedition for climbers with real mountaineering experience behind them.
Trip Facts
| Duration | 30 days (climbing period 17 days) |
|---|---|
| Max altitude | 7,134m / 23,406ft — Tilicho Peak summit |
| Difficulty | Strenuous — serious technical expedition |
| Trek start / end | Kathmandu |
| Best season | Apr–May (primary), Sep–Oct |
| Accommodation | Teahouse + full-board tented base camp and high camps |
| Group size | 2–6 (1:1 climbing Sherpa above base camp) |
| Permits | Expedition royalty + ACAP + TIMS + liaison officer |
| Daily walking | 4–6 hours; 12–14 hours on summit day |
Overview
Tilicho Peak stands at 7,134m on the western end of the Annapurna range, directly above Tilicho Lake — at 4,919m one of the highest lakes on earth. It is a mountain very few teams attempt. There is no queue, no fixed infrastructure left over from other expeditions, and no trekking-peak shortcut: this is a full expedition-royalty permit, a liaison officer, three high camps and a genuinely difficult route on steep snow, ice and mixed ground. The approach alone would make a good trip. You follow the Annapurna Circuit through the Marsyangdi valley to Manang, then branch west through Khangsar and up the exposed traverse to Tilicho Lake, where the expedition base camp sits under the north-east face. Everything above base camp is carried and camped — there are no lodges, no other teams and no easy retreat. The climbing is sustained. Steep snow and ice above Camp 1, mixed ground and objective danger on the face between Camp 2 and Camp 3, and a long summit day from 6,600m that runs twelve to fourteen hours. We fix the route with our own Sherpa team and every member climbs 1:1 above base camp, but you have to be able to move fast and confidently on technical ground while carrying a pack at 6,500m and above. We require prior experience and we check it. At minimum: a 6,500m+ summit, competence on alpine rock and ice to grade AD, and previous nights in a tent above 6,000m. Twenty-five to thirty days is the honest range and we run thirty, with three rotation days and three contingency days, because a 7,000m peak with one weather window and no spare day is not an expedition — it is a holiday with a permit.
Highlights
- A 7,134m Annapurna summit attempted by only a handful of teams a year
- Trek to Tilicho Lake at 4,919m, one of the highest lakes in the world
- Full expedition support — royalty permit, liaison officer, three high camps, own route fixing
- 1:1 climbing Sherpa above base camp and emergency oxygen carried by the team
- Sustained steep snow, ice and mixed climbing on the north-east face
- Nilgiri, Tilicho ridge, Annapurna I and the Dhaulagiri massif from the summit
- Three contingency days and a real weather window built into the schedule
Itinerary
Arrive Kathmandu; expedition briefing, royalty and permit formalities
Kathmandu — equipment issue, liaison officer briefing, team preparation
Drive Kathmandu to Jagat, Marsyangdi valley
Jagat to Dharapani
Dharapani to Chame
Chame to Upper Pisang
Upper Pisang to Manang via Ngawal
Manang acclimatisation day — hike to Ice Lake
Manang to Khangsar
Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp lodge
Tilicho Base Camp to Tilicho Lake and expedition base camp; camp set-up
Base camp — puja ceremony, rope, jumar, abseil and rescue skills review
Load carry toward Camp 1 and return to base camp
Rest day at base camp
Rotation: base camp to Camp 1, sleep high
Rotation: Camp 1 to Camp 2 and return to Camp 1
Descend to base camp
Rest and recovery at base camp
Rest day — weather forecast review and summit planning
Summit push: base camp to Camp 1
Camp 1 to Camp 2
Camp 2 to Camp 3 on the north-east face
Summit day: Camp 3 to Tilicho Peak summit; descend to Camp 2
Camp 2 to base camp
Contingency day — weather or second summit attempt
Contingency day — weather or second summit attempt
Contingency day — weather or second summit attempt
Base camp clean-up; trek out via Tilicho Base Camp to Khangsar and Manang
Drive Manang to Besisahar to Kathmandu; summit certificate and farewell dinner
Final departure
Days 25 to 27 are held in reserve for the summit. If the window arrives early the whole schedule shifts forward and the spare days become rest days in Manang — we never spend a good window sitting at base camp because the itinerary says so.
What the Price Includes
Cost Includes
- Airport pick-up and drop-off (private vehicle)
- All ground transport and internal flights per itinerary
- Teahouse/lodge accommodation on the trekking phase (twin share)
- Full-board tented camp at base camp and high camp
- Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu per itinerary (3-star, B&B)
- Three meals a day from the trailhead to the summit and back
- Government-licensed climbing guide (IFMGA or NNMGA certified)
- Climbing Sherpa on summit day — 1:2 ratio, 1:1 on Tilicho Peak
- Porter service on the trekking phase (1 porter per 2 members, max 25kg)
- All staff wages, insurance, equipment, food and lodging
- Climbing permit and national park/conservation entry fees
- TIMS card and Khumbu rural municipality fee
- Group climbing equipment — fixed and main rope, ice screws, snow bar, pickets
- Expedition tents, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent and mattresses
- Emergency oxygen, mask and regulator carried by the climbing team
- Satellite phone and radio communication at base camp
- First aid kit, pulse oximeter and portable altitude chamber (PAC bag)
- Duffel bag, expedition map and company T-shirt
- Summit certificate issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association
- All government taxes and service charges
Cost Excludes
- International airfare and Nepal visa fees
- Travel and medical insurance (mandatory — must cover helicopter evacuation and climbing to 7,500m)
- Meals in Kathmandu (except welcome and farewell dinner)
- Personal climbing equipment — boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, ascender, descender
- Personal trekking and down clothing
- Hot showers, Wi-Fi, battery charging and bottled drinks on trek
- Alcoholic and soft drinks
- Personal expenses — laundry, phone, souvenirs
- Emergency evacuation costs (recoverable from your insurer)
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (customary — we advise the current rate)
- Tips for guide, Sherpa and porters
- Anything not listed under "Cost Includes"
Best Time to Trek
The most reliable season. Clear skies, stable weather, firm trails and the sharpest mountain views of the year. Book early; this is peak season on every route.
The second-best window and the finest season for scenery below 4,000m, when rhododendron forests are in full bloom. Warmer nights and longer days, with some afternoon haze building through May.
Clear, quiet and cold. Excellent for lower routes such as Poon Hill, Mardi Himal and Kathmandu Valley. High passes may close under snow.
Wet and leech-prone on most routes, but this is the right season for the rain-shadow trails: Upper Mustang, Nar Phu and Upper Dolpo.
Frequently Asked Questions
A previous 6,500m+ summit, competence on alpine rock and ice to grade AD, previous nights camped above 6,000m, and the ability to jumar a fixed line and abseil confidently with a pack. We ask for a climbing CV and we decline bookings that do not meet it — this is not a mountain to learn on.
Sustained and serious. Steep snow and ice above Camp 1, mixed ground with real objective danger on the face between Camp 2 and Camp 3, and a long exposed summit day from 6,600m. Our Sherpa team fixes the route, but fixed rope removes the route-finding, not the difficulty.
Not routinely. Tilicho Peak is normally climbed without supplementary oxygen. We carry emergency oxygen, mask and regulator with the climbing team and keep a portable altitude chamber at base camp for medical use.
Because a 7,000m peak needs a full rotation to Camp 2, real recovery at base camp and more than one shot at the summit. Days 13 to 17 are the acclimatisation rotation and Days 25 to 27 are contingency. Compressing those is how expeditions fail — or worse.
Very. Above Tilicho Lake there are no lodges, no other teams and no walk-out option that does not begin with descending the mountain. Helicopter evacuation from base camp is possible in good weather only. Your insurance must cover helicopter rescue and climbing to 7,500m.
Expedition royalty and all permits, liaison officer, full-board base camp with cook and dining tent, all high camps and group climbing equipment, route fixing, a 1:1 climbing Sherpa above base camp, satellite communication and emergency oxygen. Personal climbing gear, insurance, international flights and the customary Sherpa summit bonus are not included.
Ready to Book This Trek?
Departures run year-round on your dates — private groups, couples and solo trekkers all welcome. Tell us your dates and we will send a full quote within 24 hours.
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